Although wine was what primarily drew me to visit Georgia, I knew from my few weeks of research as I planned my trip that there was a lot more to this compact country than its immense history of winemaking. Ever the sightseer, I was determined to see as much of it as I could in seven days and a visit to Stepantsminda, also known as Kazbegi, high in the Caucasus Mountains was next on my list.
After my three wonderful days touring the Kakheti wine region, I returned to Tbilisi for the remainder of my time in Georgia with a day long bus tour planned to visit Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) next on my itinerary with Gamarjoba Tours. Years ago, I learned that when traveling solo, day tours are often a great way to cram a lot in without having to think about the transportation, meals, and are a nice break from figuring it all out on your own. They often provide an opportunity to learn a little more about the places and culture as well as a means for meeting other solo travelers.
Thursday, June 24th, 2021
The tour guide picked me up at my hotel, the Shota Rustaveli Boutique Hotel located in the heart of downtown Tbilisi early that morning and we were on our way. My small group of 12 tourists represented many eastern European and Asia countries; all of us happy to travel again.
We set out leaving Tbilisi behind bound for the Georgian Military Highway, one of the most scenic drives in Georgia, and the drive along it did not disappoint. This stretch of road is known as the land bridge between Georgia, Russia, and much of Europe and Asia. We made our way to our first stop, the Jinvali (also Zhinvali) Water Reservoir, which provides the main source of drinking water for Tbilisi. The Soviets constructed the dam in the 1980's. A vibrant turquoise color, it was a beautiful pitstop symbolic of the mountainous scenery we would experience during our day trip.
From there we began our trek into Northern Georgia and higher into the Caucasus Mountains ultimately arriving at the Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. During my planning, I had contemplated staying overnight at this hotel to have a bit more time in the mountains but decided that I did not want to be moving hotels nearly every night during my week-long trip so I opted to base myself in Tbilisi and just do a day trip. However, after seeing the hotel, I could certainly see myself staying here for a night or two on a return visit just to get away from the city. The Rooms is beautiful, luxury but rustic hotel providing incredible views of surrounding mountains. The lobby features massive bookshelves filled with books and the expansive terrace a wonderful view of the countryside surrounding the small town. Typically, a more of a coastal/water fan; I do have an appreciation for the mountains, the fresh air and the peaceful beauty that comes with it.
Hopping back in our minibus, we drove a short distance further into the mountains to visit the Gergeti Trinity Church. Once we'd reached the point that our minibus could go no further, we split up into small 4x4 vehicles to take the windy road up to the church. Often referred to as one of the most beautiful and iconic churches in the world as a symbol of Georgia, the Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century and known as the only cross-cupola church in the Khveri province and located on the right bank of the Chkheri River under Kazbegi Mountain. In times of danger, precious relics were brought here for safekeeping; though during the Soviet Era, the Soviets prohibited religious services. Now, it is an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church. The church has remained a popular tourist destination due its isolation in the steep mountains and view of Kazbegi. The views were remarkable to say the least.
After making our way back down from the Gergeti Trinity Church, we boarded our minibus and began to make our way back down the Georgian Military Road with several more stops ahead of us. Next up was Gudauri View Point, also known as the Friendship Monument of the Georgian and Russian People. Built in 1983 to celebrate the ongoing friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia, the massive stone arch structure overlooking the Devil's Valley is a sight to be seen. We were given time to visit the various street vendors, watch the paragliders flying over the valley and of course time to take in the beautiful views.
After leaving the Friendship Monument, we made our way to a local restaurant for our supra, or traditional Georgian meal. If there was one thing I did in Georgia, it was most certainly eat very well. Set in this quaint courtyard, the restaurant provided a number of traditional Georgian dishes which I had experienced in the previous days during my wine tour, and I got my first taste of Khinkali! Very tasty!
With full bellies, we were off to our last stop before returning to Tbilisi, the Ananuri Fortress Complex. Submitted by the Georgian Ministry of Culture to be included as a UNESCO recognized site in 2007, the Ananuri Fortress Complex sits on the Aragvi River and was the scene of numerous battles. It provided beautiful views of the Jinvali Reservoir we saw earlier in the day and could be a photographer's dream watching the sunset over the reservoir with the rock walls in the foreground. Ananuri was our last stop of the day, and a full day it was. I saw more of this intriguing country and had another two days to see even more.
Friday, June 25th, 2021
Originally, I had booked another day long tour with the same tour company for this day to visit the Uplistsikhe Cave town, along with several other places. But after five very full-on days of sightseeing and the consistent 95-100F degree heat, I decided it was time to slow down a bit and spend more time in Tbilisi and save these sites for my next visit, as by now I knew there would most definitely be more visits to Georgia. So, after a leisurely and relaxed breakfast at my hotel, I set out to explore Rustaveli Avenue, the main thoroughfare in Tbilisi lined with shops, restaurants, museums and anything else you could possibly want. This was a different part of town from where I stayed my first night in the hills over Old Town Tbilisi and I wanted to get a better sense of the city.
I set out to visit the Georgian National Museum which was only a few blocks from my hotel. Quite large, it was worth the several hours it took to explore and the break from the heat during the hottest part of the day. While the artifacts were interesting, it was the history of Russia's relationship with Georgia that I spent time reading. The museum itself is very well done and worth a visit if you find yourself in Tbilisi.
Later that afternoon, needing my Georgian wine fix, I set out to visit a wine shop that Daria, my trusted wine tour guide, recommended called 8000 Vintages. What could possibly be wrong here, right? I knew the minute I walked in the door that I was in heaven. With walls upon walls lined with bottles of Georgian wine, I could have been here for days. After tasting several wines they had open, I grabbed a table to enjoy some local cheeses and bread with a glass of Rkatsiteli. And plotting a return visit for the next day to select a few bottles that would be going home with me!
Saturday, June 26th, 2021
On my last day in Tbilisi I did what I normally do on my first day in a new city; find the tourist-typical Hop On, Hop Off (or as I refer to them "Ho-Ho") bus tour to get my cheesy tourist fix and learn a little bit about this city I've just landed in. Well, in this case it was to learn a little more about the city I'd been exploring by foot for a few days already! Taking a seat on the upper level, I settled in and snagged those essential photos from the top of a moving bus seeing a few parts of the city I hadn't yet explored by foot and many that I had already. Hopping off in Old Town, I visited the Tbilisi History Museum and wandered through Old Town one last time. Then after riding the full circuit, I made my way to 8000 Vintages once again to taste a few more wines and select a few bottles to have shipped home. Having had my fill of Georgian cuisine, I made my way to a local restaurant/grill for an early dinner and quirky ice cream shop (also recommended by Daria) before bidding Georgia farewell the early the next morning.
Final Thoughts.... Like the start of my trip, my last few days in Georgia exceeded my expectations. When I think back to that ride into the mountains that very hot and sunny day, I never expected to find scenery that rivaled what I experienced when I visited the Swiss Alps several years before. Although a bit "rougher" in terms of terrain and less modernized, our journey into the mountainous region of Georgia was breathtaking in every sense of the word.
As it turned out my week in Georgia was not nearly enough. I had no idea I would enjoy my time there as much as I did and that there would be so much to see and experience. While it started as a place not even on my radar; I left Georgia knowing I'll return again someday, hopefully to revisit some of the places I loved the first time (which is such an invigorating part of travel for me) and experience parts of Georgia I did not make it to on this visit. Until then, like so many places I've traveled, I left a piece of my heart in this beautiful country to be found again the next time I venture that way.
“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open." – Jawaharlal Nehru
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