Georgia: Where it Really Was All About the Wine....

Truth be told, I began writing this blog over a month ago in mid-November, in my haste to get my blogs about my trip to Georgia written and posted before I set off on my next journey to Europe for the Christmas Markets at the end of that month. But, if you read my last blog, you know my plans shifted once again when that tour was canceled just over a week before we were set to depart. Sadly, in the aftermath that followed and then the subsequent holidays my blog was again neglected. So, as I round out the end of 2021, there will hopefully be a few more posts as I reflect on this past year. The people I've met, the places I saw, and the experiences that made 2021 unforgettable.

Now, let's go back to Georgia, where it was all about the wine.

I've said it once, and I'll say it again...one of the main things that led me to travel to Georgia when I was shifting my plans last spring was the fact that it is known as the birthplace of wine. After all, one of my first "normal" pandemic activities was completing my WSET- Level 2, virtually of course, in June of 2020. And ironically, like I shared when I wrote about why I choose Georgia; I'd purchased a bottle of Georgian Saperavi in August 2020 at a small local wine shop. A bottle I later opened just as I bought my plane tickets to go!

What I didn't expect was the absolutely incredible experience I'd have spending three days on a private wine-tour of the Kakheti region with Daria Kholodilina of Trails and Wines, and our driver, Soso. I connected with Daria early on in my planning through Emily Lush, a blogger who responded to a Trip Advisor Forum question I had posted. After quickly browsing through Daria's website and exchanging a few emails I knew working with her for a private wine tour was exactly what I was looking for as my first authentic wine experience in Georgia. Over the course of the next few months, she organized an itinerary that would include visiting a few wineries across the Kakheti Region as well as some historical stops as well. She provided recommendations for places to stay on the two overnights. It fell together easily, and I was all set.

Monday, June 21st, 2021

After a lovely night at the Amante Narikala, Daria and Soso picked me up at my hotel and we were off, leaving the city of Tbilisi behind. As we drove through the Georgian countryside, Daria introduced me to life in Georgia. Ukrainian by birth, Daria had moved to Georgia several years before and had been studying wine and working in the travel and tourism industry since. She's written a book about Georgian wine and knows the country and its many wine regions very well. She shared with me a little about the Kakheti region as well as the wine makers and winery owners we'd meet over the course of the next three days.

After driving for about two hours east of Tbilisi, we arrived at our first stop the Bodbe Monastery. Quite beautiful and rich with history closely connected with Georgia's adoption of Christianity, the monastery has been refurbished and remodeled. Daria shared some of the history as we wandered around the beautiful grounds.

After leaving the monastery, we drove a few minutes down the road to the charming town of Sighnaghi; known as the Georgian wedding city as many locals and

tourists alike will marry here. Soso dropped us off just at the entry arch to the small, quiet town and we walked along the cobblestone streets peppered with small wine shops and rustic buildings with wooden balconies often seen all over Georgia. We made our way to walk along the town wall, the longest in Georgia. It reminded me a bit of walking the walls in Dubrovnik in Croatia the year before only on a much smaller scale. The views of the valleys below and the Caucasus Mountains in the distance was breathtaking.

Reaching the end of the walk along the walls, we then made our way to Orko's Winery and Restaurant for my first official Georgian wine tasting and lunch, or supra. We were immediately greeted by one of the owners and led upstairs to their covered balcony for our tasting and supra. The views were incredible and before I knew it the plates of food arrived one after another and kept arriving! Daria had ordered a little of everything for us and I quickly learned that tastings in Georgia often accompanied a feast of tasty local foods. We tasted about six wines, all organically made in qvevri's as is traditional in Georgia. The white wines will be a bit darker in color; more amber than the lighter or clearer white wines I'm used to here in the U.S. I'll admit, although I was familiar with Rkatsiteli as it's relatively easy to get in the U.S., it did take me a bit to get used to the different taste of it made organically. In fact, most of the whites we tasted over the next few days were different, but I did begin to grow fond of them. Now, the reds, especially the Saperavi, we became fast friends instantly!

Filled with authentic Georgian cuisine and natural wine, we left Sighnaghi and Orko's and headed to our last stop of the day and destination for the evening, Lost Ridge Inn, Brewery and Kitchen. I'll admit, I really didn't think I'd taste beer in Georgia, but Daria highly recommended that we stop here and stay for the night and shortly after our arrival I knew exactly why. Set back a rocky, winding road we arrived at the property which doubles as a quaint inn and brewery and restaurant. It's secluded along this beautiful property overlooking the valley below. After short nap (hey, sightseeing, wine tasting and indulging in hearty cuisine is hard work!), we wandered over to the restaurant for a beer tasting and later another amazing feast of Georgian cuisine!

Tamara was our host as she shared the story of Lost Ridge and guided us through the tasting of six beers, all brewed on site. The beers were just my speed, not to heavy or (IPA-like) and more along the German styles beers I prefer. The beer maker trained in Seattle, ironically, at a brewery/restaurant I'd visited when in Seattle a few years before. Tamara's energy and passion made it easy to enjoy a leisurely afternoon. After we finished our tasting, it was time to eat and once again we enjoyed an immense array of local foods. The Georgian's eat very well. And so did I.

Tuesday, June 22nd, 2021

After an amazing first day, I honestly didn't think it could get any better. But our second day was a full one and one of the most memorable yet. After a tasty and filling breakfast we set off to visit the Nekresi Monastery. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the lane leading up to the monastery, we were greeted by a security guard stating that it was closed so I was not able to visit. Daria, however, did some quick work and reached out to a winemaker she knew, Levan Chychynadze, and we altered our plans to visit him at two wineries where he makes wine.

Levan greeted us at Nekresi Estate where he was just about to disgorge some sparkling wine. Although it was long before noon, who's to pass up tasting some bubbles to start the day, right? As we watched, Levan shared his international journey in winemaking. Ukrainian by birth, Levan has refined his winemaking skills working in California (Sonoma), the Margaret River area in Western Australia and returned closer to home to Georgia in 2019. His wife, who also works in the wine industry is Argentinian. Of course, we had PLENTY to talk about discussing wines from around the world. As we sampled the sparkling wine, we wandered around the property where a new restaurant was being finished, set to open shortly thereafter. It was another beautiful setting to enjoy before hoping in the car and following Levan to Tiko Estate, where he is the managing partner and makes most of his wines.

Here, as we entered this massive room, I was greeted with the familiar sight of steel tanks, oak barrels and the ever familiar smell of wine. Levan gave us a tour of the production facility and we were then treated to a barrel tasting, something I've come quite accustomed to working at a winery in the U.S. Levan was entertaining and engaging as he shared his wines.

Bidding Levan farewell, we headed to our next stop, which was the most memorable yet. Did I mention that it just kept getting better? We drove the short distance to Chubini Wine Cellar and were greeted by owners, Tornike Chuninidze and his lovely wife, Lika. Once you walk through the gate, you're greeted with this peaceful yard surrounded by vines with the Caucasus mountains in the background. Off to the side of the yard is this massive walnut tree providing shade for a large picnic table. Tornike gave us a tour of the wine cellar built of stone. Here he shared his story of how he made his wine from vine, to qvevri, to hand bottling and labeling each and every bottle he makes. He's only made wine for a few years but rapidly began to get international acclaim after competing in an international wine show and winning against eight other wine cellars representing four other countries. He distributes his wine to Japan, China, U.S. and France.

But awards aside, it was the hospitality of both Tornike and his wife Lika that remains with me today; just over six months since my visit that afternoon. After the tour of the property was finished, Lika brought out a spread of foods like no other, all cooked by her in their small kitchen on the property. While the food and wines were delicious, it was their ease at making me feel at home, as if part of the family, as we sat around the picnic table under that walnut tree for hours that hot afternoon. It was there, I realized that although we may come from vastly different parts of the world, the common love of wine unites us and can make the large world we live in feel much smaller. So, thank you Tornike and Lika for such a lovely afternoon and sharing your story. I know I will be back to visit again someday.

As sun began to get lower in the sky, we headed off to our last stop, and my resting spot for the night, the Radisson Tsinandali. It had been highly recommended that I stay at this hotel and it did not disappoint. My only regret was that we didn't get there sooner - though I wouldn't have traded the afternoon drinking wine under a beautiful walnut tree with lovely people either! The hotel is grandiose, has multiple bars, its own wine cellar and beautiful grounds surrounding the property. I enjoyed a glass of Saperavi on the outside patio before turning in for the night.

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2021 The next morning, Daria had arranged for me to tour the Tsinandali wine cellar after breakfast followed by a tour of House Museum of Alexander Chavchavadze. After hearing a little bit of the history, I was led to the cellar to find some incredibly old bottles of wine as well as a bit more history of the Qvevri. After the short tour, I wandered through the park to the Museum where I was also given a guided tour before enjoying a tasting of the Tsinandali Estate wines. While I'd already become a fan of Saperavi, it was their Rose' that intrigued me the most, as it was blended with nine grapes. After I wrapped up my tasting, I headed back to the hotel to meet Daria for a glass of wine in the hotel's beautiful library before we set off for our final two stops before returning to Tbilisi later that afternoon.

Leaving the Tsinandali behind, our next stop was to visit the home of a Qvevri maker and learn a little about these massive clay pots that for centuries Georgians have made their wine. Like many Georgian homes, you can't see much from the road, but when you enter the gates their backyards are beautifully manicured creating this peaceful atmosphere. Our host provided a tour of where the qvevri's of different sizes are made from start to finish. The size of some of them is incredible and it blew my mine to think how they are moved and then later buried underground.

After the tour, we followed our host into his small wine cellar (everyone makes wine in Georgia) to sample his wines and my first (and likely last) taste of Chacha, Georgia traditional after dinner liquor or brandy. Homebrews can be about 40-50% (or more) alcohol, these two were definitely quite high!. I'll stick to the wine, thanks! Thanking our lovely host, it was time to head to our last stop, a brand-new winery that hadn't even opened to the public yet, though thanks to Daria's connections we were able to visit.

We arrived at the now open Winery Rtoni and were greeted by George Sky, who was an equally lovely host as he showed us around his new winery. Set amid acres of vines with the Caucasus mountains as a backdrop, I could see this small, but charming and modern venue being one you'd return to time and time again with a glass of wine to enjoy the view. As I was now accustomed, George had prepared a lovely assortment of local cuisine to pair with his wines. While the wines were lovely and conversation engaging, the Saperavi soaked pork with onions is still something I dream about! Seriously though, George was a fantastic and comfortable host who shared his story on how began making wine and came to own a winery. It was a pleasant and relaxing afternoon where I once again felt amongst friends I'd known for more than just a few hours.

As if you couldn't tell, my three days of exploring and touring the Kakheti wine region in Georgia with Daria as my guide was remarkable. She provided an experience that exceeded my expectations in ways I hoped I've captured with words and through pictures. And while it might have been all about the wine from the start, I came away from those three days with the experience of meeting people whom I would not have otherwise met if I hadn't decided to visit Georgia six months ago. So, thank you to our hosts at Orko's (whose names I neglected to write down), Tamara, Levan, Tornike, Lika, George, and of course Daria and our wonderful driver Soso for providing me the kindest and most genuine Georgian welcome. I'm almost afraid to post this as now the secret will be out what a wonderful experience it is to visit your country. Until my next visit, madloba!

"Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow." -Anita Desai